LOADED PIEROGI HEAPS ON THE TOPPINGS
Rather than stick-straight, they’re shaped into curvy, half moons.
And just like North America’s beloved French fry, the perogy is a culinary tabula rasa, a tasty blank slate just waiting to soak up flavour.
“It’s a nice canvas,” says chef and restaurateur Bryan Burke, of this traditional Eastern European dish.
“There’s so much you can do with it.”
Especially since this semicircular parcel of dough and filling won’t turn to mush or go limp and get soggy under, say, a heap of pulled pork and goat cheese or sautéed shitakis and white truffle oil.
Could this dumpling be the new poutine?
Burke and Adam Dolley, co-owners of Loaded Pierogi at 9½ Church St., hear customers making the comparison to Canada’s unofficially official food all the time when confronted by the menu at this 2½-month-old eat in/take out restaurant.
Burke and Dolley offer a panoply of toppings such as sweet and sour marinated skirt steak, wild mushrooms and wasabi cream (Thai Ginger Steak, $15); and crispy confit duck with caramelized onions and sautéed cherry tomatoes (Donald Duck, $15). Even caramelized apples make an appearance in a dessert perogy filled with sweet cheese and topped with caramel sauce. You can also customize your own.
Hidden at the foot of Church St. and nestled beside parent restaurant Hank’s, Loaded Pierogi is Burke and Dolley’s side project — when Burke’s burger joint, which occupied the same space, got lost in Toronto’s expansive sea of patties and buns, the men searched for a new angle.
They found it in the perogy, a dish they both loved but couldn’t agree on how to top. Their differences lead to that “aha” moment, when the chef duo realized they could sling anything over this sturdy food.